Because there’s more than sand and sunsets
Mostly, everyone comes to Phuket for the beaches. And I understand. The beaches are gorgeous. Water is clear. Sand is white. Those longtail boats that seem like they jumped right out of a postcard. But after a couple of days at the beach, I began to ask myself what the island held beyond beaches. I didn’t want to leave without catching a glimpse of the true Phuket, the things no one speaks of.
So I hired a scooter, turned off Google Maps for a while, and just began wandering around. What I discovered was a whole other side of the island.
Begin with Old Phuket Town
This was the first place that slowed me down. Old Phuket Town is a whole different world from Patong or Kata. No beach in evidence. Just streets of multicolored shophouses, cramped streets, and a combination of Chinese, Portuguese, and Thai architecture that imparts the town its own beat.
I spent an entire afternoon roaming with no agenda. Around each corner was something unique, such as a mural on a building, a small café with three tables, or a store selling handcrafted soaps and snacks I couldn’t identify. The street art is omnipresent, and it’s worth taking the time to examine up close. Some is whimsical. Some is political. All of it has a local feel to it.
For lunch, I stumbled upon a little restaurant named The Charm Dining Gallery. It was posh-looking outside, but the prices were affordable. I had crab fried rice and cold lime soda, and sat by the window facing the street outside. No hurry. No mob. Just good food and peaceful.
A View Worth Climbing For: Khao Rang Hill
Just outside of Old Town is Khao Rang Hill, a lesser-known viewpoint. It’s popular with locals, particularly in the late afternoon when the sun begins to descend and the heat finally begins to subside.
I left my scooter and walked the final stretch of road. The panorama at the top? Pretty nice. You can view all of Phuket Town, part of the coastline, and the hills in the distance. What I enjoyed most was the wind. After walking for hours under the sun, being there with wind blowing in my face, and the gentle rustling of trees was like a reward.
There’s a cafe up there too. They had good coffee, a good view, and lots of shade. It’s the sort of place where you sit and dawdle without feeling you must share it online.
A Temple Without Tourists: Wat Sri Sunthon
I’d already visited Wat Chalong, the large temple that everyone goes to. It was impressive, of course, but full of tour buses and selfie-takers at every possible angle.
Wat Sri Sunthon was unlike the others. Peaceful. Hidden away down a main road. There is a massive reclining Buddha on the top of one of the buildings, which you can see from afar. But when I got there, I had the place to myself.
The monks smiled at me as I strolled through the grounds. I removed my shoes at the entrance and ambled along. Nobody hurried me along. Nobody attempted to sell me things. Only silence, incense, and the sound of wooden floors creaking beneath my footsteps.
It was the first time that I felt like I genuinely visited a temple, not just looked at one.
Local Market Vibes: Chillva Market
In the evening, I went to Chillva Market, which was suggested by one of my hotel guests. It’s mostly locals, like teenagers, families, and groups of friends having dinner. There were food stalls, naturally, but also clothing, handmade jewelry, and a handful of miscellaneous knick-knack stalls I couldn’t stay out of.
I also attempted grilled chicken skewers, mango sticky rice, and a Thai tea, too sweet for my taste but satisfying. There was music as well. It was nothing grand, just a man with a guitar softly singing while individuals dined on low stools under string lights.
It did not have a touristy feel to it. It had the appearance of a place where people actually go to hang out after work.
A Walk Through the Mangroves
On my final day of fullness, I went to Bang Pae Nature Trail, which belongs to Khao Phra Thaeo National Park. No beach. No structures. Only a forest path through the mangroves and a waterfall at the terminus.
The hike was shaded and serene. Periodically muddy. I spotted birds, some lizards, and not much else, which was just fine with me. The waterfall isn’t huge, but it’s a good payoff at the end of the path. A handful of people were swimming. I simply sat on a rock and listened.
This reminded me that Phuket does retain areas of unspoiled nature. You just need to search a bit more.
Final Thoughts
Phuket is not monolithic. Yes, the beaches are beautiful. But if you get off the beach, there is an entirely different side to discover, such as street art, peaceful temples, forest paths, and local cuisine.
I believe most people go to Phuket to see the beach life and nightlife, and they leave assuming they have seen the island. But if you’re curious to try to look, even for a day or two, you will discover its slower, more earthy version.
And truly, that’s what I still remember now.